Traditional roofing underlayments work to help keep your roofing deck and anything below it dry and free of moisture. RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment performs just like a traditional underlayment and meets or exceeds all of Miami-Dade County’s requirements for one. We’ve added a layer of our best-selling pure aluminum to the second side of this non-woven underlayment so when it’s installed in roof systems with an air space, it can block 97% of radiant barrier. This foil insulation plus underlayment is all you need!
To learn more about the new underlayment, watch our other intro video: https://youtu.be/EyuQnvVakHs
Buy RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment: https://bit.ly/2XOfyt6
How to Install RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment in a metal or tile roof: https://radiantbarrierguru.com/how-to-install/
6 thoughts on “How RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment Works As a Radiant Barrier in Metal and Tile Roofing Systems”
I attached radiant barrier to the rafter front, creating a 3-3/4″ air gap. I removed the soffit blocks and with the ridge vent a continuous air flow exists between the soffits and ridge vent. Do I need more ventilation?
With the radiant barrier, your attic temperature should be MUCH cooler. I’m guessing you will be good.
Can I put this product between two layers of plywood roof sheeting and then install a cold rolled asphalt roof to help reduce heat radiating down? This is for a screened porch application.
Nope, it doesn’t work like that. Putting any radiant barrier between 2 other materials makes it void as a radiant heat shield – it can’t block any heat that way. You must have at least a ½” air space on one side of the foil between the foil and the next layer.
our attic had old cellulose insulation and some of it caught fire from a defective vent fan and smoldered for a while. Fortunately it was caught and did not burn down our house. We were told by the fire marshal that we should remove the cellulose. We found someone to do that for free IF we bought their radiant foil barrier. We did that, even though it left us with only the foil in our attic for insulation. We are wanting to re insulate our attic, but because the foil actually did work some, we want to keep it. We were also told by a local insulation expert that we should not use the spray foam insulation here. We live in Pensacola, FL on a lake and it is very humid here. He told us that putting a lot of spray foam in our attic would probably cause sweating in our attic and mold. Like a foam cooler sweats when it is chilled inside. What do you suggest for us?
I suggest you use a combination of radiant barrier foil and regular, traditional insulation (your choice – I don’t have a preference on spray foam vs. cellulose vs. Roxul, etc.). The foil will block 97% of radiant heat (you know it works!) and the r-value insulation will slow down conductive heat through the wood and floor of the attic space. More info here on using both of these to create a perfectly insulated attic space: https://atticfoil.com/index.php/does-atticfoil-replace-regular-insulation/