Comments on: New Video=>SUMMER HEAT – It’s coming. What’s your defense?

By: Ed Fritz

Ed Fritz — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 02:33:24 +0000

Sandy, You have a unique situation that calls for a unique solution. Here is an idea. Install a solar vent, but REVERSE the wires to make the solar fan push air INTO the attic rather than pull it out. This is called “Positive Pressure Ventilation”. It’s not the most ideal setup, but it is a lot better than not having any intake (soffit) vents. You would put the fan as far away from the gable vent as possible. Air would be “Pushed” into the attic and would travel the path of least resistance to the gable vent. Once again, It is not the most ideal method, but I’ve seen it work very effectively on many homes.

Another option is since you are getting a new roof, you can install an “edge vent” or there are also several brands of “ventilated fascia board”. Both these type products will ACT like soffit vents.

By: Sandy

Sandy — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 23:30:28 +0000

I am getting ready to reroof after hail storm. My house is c1920, has no overhand or soffits and only has one gable vent in the front. I want to install decking, new shingles and Attic Foil, but am perplexed on ventilation. Roofer suggests ridge vents, but the only air intake is the gable vent. What to do if there is no soffit? With Attic Foil and ridge vents will I be ok ventilation wise?

By: Ed Fritz

Ed Fritz — Mon, 08 Nov 2010 22:11:21 +0000

Kirk, Shingle temperatures only go up a few degrees usually 2º-10º max. Here is a complete article that addresses this question: The Effect of Radiant Barriers on Shingle Temperatures. Am I going to BAKE my shingles?

By: Kirk

Kirk — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 19:00:44 +0000

Ed,
If applied to the rafters, would this create more heat for the shingles and lessen the lifespan of them?
If applied to the ceiling joists, is there a possibility for condensation?
Thanks!

By: Ed Fritz

Ed Fritz — Wed, 06 Oct 2010 18:50:10 +0000

Jim,

If you are stapling up, it is very possible you will have some contact with the insulation near the soffits. If the contact is on the bottom only then there is no reduction in effectiveness. You should install the radiant barrier using the staple up method FIRST. You will probably compress and disturb your existing insulation somewhat during the installation – it’s part of the job. Then, blow in additional insulation and stay out of the attic.

By: Jim Shorr

Jim Shorr — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 00:26:15 +0000

Should radiant barrier make contact with insulation at/near soffit areas….it seem it would create a heat sink, if so?
Should baffles be installed in same area before barrier install?
WHEN should addition of blown fiberglass be done…before/after radiant barrier. In my case present attic floor is approx R-16 and I would like to supplement (with blown fiberglass via contractor) to R30 or R-60 for my Atlanta, GA location?

Thanks very much.

Jim shorr

By: Ed Fritz

Ed Fritz — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 21:58:37 +0000

A radiant barrier will work ANYWHERE. Inside, outside you name it. Radiant barrier AtticFoil is usually installed INSIDE an attic as a retrofit application. Getting a radiant barrier to the outside of the structure is usually only available during new construction or if you are doing some type of “raised” roof that contains an air space. The perfect case would be to build your home like a well insulated, air tight refrigerator to reduce conductive heat and then wrap it with foil (even if it is behind brick, stone, siding, roofing etc.) as the first line of defense against radiant heat.

By: Jessica

Jessica — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 18:05:04 +0000

We are looking to install a radiant barrier and have been told it’s best to install a solar powered fan as well. Is it necessesary to have both installed? Your blog is very helpful. Thank you.