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	<title>Comments for The Radiant Barrier Guru</title>
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	<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com</link>
	<description>Saving You Money on Your Energy Bills</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:02:57 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by Ed Fritz</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-39098</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Fritz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:02:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-39098</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Beth, I would double check on the drip edge venting.  It would be my first choice.  The window idea is OK, but if you really want to reduce the heat entering the home, be sure to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atticfoil.com/applications-and-uses-2/under-roofing.html&quot; title=&quot;radiant barrier for metal roof&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;install radiant barrier foil for metal roofs&lt;/a&gt; under your new roof.  It&#039;s cheap, easy and very effective.  You probably won&#039;t get another chance.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Beth, I would double check on the drip edge venting.  It would be my first choice.  The window idea is OK, but if you really want to reduce the heat entering the home, be sure to <a href="http://www.atticfoil.com/applications-and-uses-2/under-roofing.html" title="radiant barrier for metal roof" rel="nofollow">install radiant barrier foil for metal roofs</a> under your new roof.  It&#8217;s cheap, easy and very effective.  You probably won&#8217;t get another chance.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by Ed Fritz</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-39097</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Fritz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 14:58:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-39097</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I would try to add soffit vents if possible.  You want air to come in the bottom, through the attic and out the top.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would try to add soffit vents if possible.  You want air to come in the bottom, through the attic and out the top.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by Ed Fritz</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-39096</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Fritz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 14:56:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-39096</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I never would recommend power fans.  High profile ridge vents are the way to go if you have enough ridge.  I would do a &quot;smoke test&quot; in the attic to see if the soffits are allowing air to come in.  If they don&#039;t, then I would clean or replace them.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I never would recommend power fans.  High profile ridge vents are the way to go if you have enough ridge.  I would do a &#8220;smoke test&#8221; in the attic to see if the soffits are allowing air to come in.  If they don&#8217;t, then I would clean or replace them.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by Ed Fritz</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-39095</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Fritz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 14:54:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-39095</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Adding more soffit vents would help some assuming that there is a clear path to the top of the attic.  Tray ceilings can be tricky.  Pull the foil back and try to shine a flashlight down the baffle and see if it is clear to the soffit.  If you are still having comfort issues, I would check ofr duct leakage and have your ac system really checked out by a reputable.  Duct leakage is like leaving the front door open.  You are just constantly mixing hot air into your home.  The hotter it gets and the more you need your ac, the hotter the air coming it gets too.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Adding more soffit vents would help some assuming that there is a clear path to the top of the attic.  Tray ceilings can be tricky.  Pull the foil back and try to shine a flashlight down the baffle and see if it is clear to the soffit.  If you are still having comfort issues, I would check ofr duct leakage and have your ac system really checked out by a reputable.  Duct leakage is like leaving the front door open.  You are just constantly mixing hot air into your home.  The hotter it gets and the more you need your ac, the hotter the air coming it gets too.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by Beth</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-39066</link>
		<dc:creator>Beth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 03:45:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-39066</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Ed,
You&#039;re remarkable generous in answering questions, so here goes.  I have a square foot pre-1913 wood frame home in north Florida that originally had wood shingles, now 3-tab asphalt over board decking.  I&#039;m about to reroof, probably with architectural shingle, possibly metal.  There is a large 11:12 gabled attic space (about 1000 sq. feet under the roof) with two off-ridge vents placed high on the back (south) side of the roof, but there is nothing letting air in from below.  No soffits.  The historical district rules restrict what I can do on the front (north) of the house.  There is a gable-vented space below the 3:12 porch roof on the north, but it does not tie into the main attic.  There is a large window (30 x 60 in.) in each of the main attic&#039;s gables (east and west), large enough that the bottom is only, say, two feet off the floor of the attic.  One idea is to remove the off-ridge vents, add a ridge vent, put a louvred screen like a gable vent on the exterior of each gable window, then open the windows to provide air intake to balance the ridge.  I&#039;d have to close the windows for a big storm.  Another idea is to add a ridge vent and move the off-ridge vents lower on the south roof to provide intake.  Which would work better?  Any other ideas?  How much does it matter that there can be no intake on the north side?  There&#039;s blown-in insulation on the floor of the attic.  I don&#039;t think drip-edge venting is Florida approved.  Thank you.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Ed,<br />
You&#8217;re remarkable generous in answering questions, so here goes.  I have a square foot pre-1913 wood frame home in north Florida that originally had wood shingles, now 3-tab asphalt over board decking.  I&#8217;m about to reroof, probably with architectural shingle, possibly metal.  There is a large 11:12 gabled attic space (about 1000 sq. feet under the roof) with two off-ridge vents placed high on the back (south) side of the roof, but there is nothing letting air in from below.  No soffits.  The historical district rules restrict what I can do on the front (north) of the house.  There is a gable-vented space below the 3:12 porch roof on the north, but it does not tie into the main attic.  There is a large window (30 x 60 in.) in each of the main attic&#8217;s gables (east and west), large enough that the bottom is only, say, two feet off the floor of the attic.  One idea is to remove the off-ridge vents, add a ridge vent, put a louvred screen like a gable vent on the exterior of each gable window, then open the windows to provide air intake to balance the ridge.  I&#8217;d have to close the windows for a big storm.  Another idea is to add a ridge vent and move the off-ridge vents lower on the south roof to provide intake.  Which would work better?  Any other ideas?  How much does it matter that there can be no intake on the north side?  There&#8217;s blown-in insulation on the floor of the attic.  I don&#8217;t think drip-edge venting is Florida approved.  Thank you.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by marie</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-38666</link>
		<dc:creator>marie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 19:53:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-38666</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,

I live in Texas, I know it gets hot! My house was built in 2010, no shade whatsoever.  2100 sq ft. We had foil Radiant Barrier put in a couple of yrs ago. However we still feel that it is pretty warm in our home. High tray ceilings in every room. Soffit vents look clean, but some only cut at half moon. Can&#039;t see if the baffels are adequate not due to Radiant Barrier. Would adding more soffits help with air flow to cool the attic?

Thanks in advance for you input.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I live in Texas, I know it gets hot! My house was built in 2010, no shade whatsoever.  2100 sq ft. We had foil Radiant Barrier put in a couple of yrs ago. However we still feel that it is pretty warm in our home. High tray ceilings in every room. Soffit vents look clean, but some only cut at half moon. Can&#8217;t see if the baffels are adequate not due to Radiant Barrier. Would adding more soffits help with air flow to cool the attic?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for you input.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by Diane</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-38369</link>
		<dc:creator>Diane</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 May 2013 14:17:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-38369</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I live in SC with summer temps close to 100 degrees.  Currently have 2 attic power vents and soffit vents.  Getting a new roof with ridge vent.  Should I keep the power vents or have the roofer remove them?  Also, the soffit vents are continuous - about 2 inches wide in middle of soffit.  They are mostly painted over.  Should I replace them with something newer or just try to clean/unclog?  Thanks much!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in SC with summer temps close to 100 degrees.  Currently have 2 attic power vents and soffit vents.  Getting a new roof with ridge vent.  Should I keep the power vents or have the roofer remove them?  Also, the soffit vents are continuous &#8211; about 2 inches wide in middle of soffit.  They are mostly painted over.  Should I replace them with something newer or just try to clean/unclog?  Thanks much!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Comment on Attic Ventilation – Don’t Mess It Up by angel stone</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/#comment-37888</link>
		<dc:creator>angel stone</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 May 2013 14:13:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=34#comment-37888</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[OK here is my question and I can&#039;t seem to find the information anywhere. I live in a duplex which has attic side vents, not roof vents or soffit vents. So my question is this. is the attic side vents enough or should I add the vents in? The reason I ask is I&#039;m about to have to replace the dry wall on my living room wall along the window; Though I am not sure if the damage is from the roof leaking when the last owner had the house and they just painted over the damage for the sale or if it is condensation because of poor ventilation in the attic]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OK here is my question and I can&#8217;t seem to find the information anywhere. I live in a duplex which has attic side vents, not roof vents or soffit vents. So my question is this. is the attic side vents enough or should I add the vents in? The reason I ask is I&#8217;m about to have to replace the dry wall on my living room wall along the window; Though I am not sure if the damage is from the roof leaking when the last owner had the house and they just painted over the damage for the sale or if it is condensation because of poor ventilation in the attic</p>
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		<title>Comment on Radiant Barrier Installation Summary &#8211; Block the Heat by Ed Fritz</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/radiant-barrier-installation-summary-block-the-heat/#comment-37156</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Fritz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 17:18:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=686#comment-37156</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Stacey, we are the manufacturer and you can buy online at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atticfoil.com&quot; title=&quot;Enerflex Radiant Barrier Question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.AtticFoil.com&lt;/a&gt;  Enerflex works but it is several times more then AtticFoil and by putting the product between the rafters, you will get what is called &quot;thermal bypass&quot;.  Basically, the heat will pass through the uncovered rafters and re-radiate into the attic.  Stapling AtticFoil to the BOTTOM will help eliminate the thermal bypass.  Plus you can pull a long/big sheet and cover a large area quickly.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Stacey, we are the manufacturer and you can buy online at <a href="http://www.atticfoil.com" title="Enerflex Radiant Barrier Question" rel="nofollow">http://www.AtticFoil.com</a>  Enerflex works but it is several times more then AtticFoil and by putting the product between the rafters, you will get what is called &#8220;thermal bypass&#8221;.  Basically, the heat will pass through the uncovered rafters and re-radiate into the attic.  Stapling AtticFoil to the BOTTOM will help eliminate the thermal bypass.  Plus you can pull a long/big sheet and cover a large area quickly.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Radiant Barrier Installation Summary &#8211; Block the Heat by Stacey Lank</title>
		<link>http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/radiant-barrier-installation-summary-block-the-heat/#comment-37078</link>
		<dc:creator>Stacey Lank</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 19:52:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/?p=686#comment-37078</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I am wanting to do this process myself and I was wondering where you recommend buying the product from at the best price and how to accurately measure how much or how big of a roll I would need. I also saw on a homedepot site where they sold an &quot;enerflex radiant barrier &quot; panels  that measured 24&quot; x 4&#039; or 16&quot; x 4&#039;. I was wondering if this would achieve the same outsome as the radiant barrier sheets....the panels seem similar just without having to staple...thanks so much!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am wanting to do this process myself and I was wondering where you recommend buying the product from at the best price and how to accurately measure how much or how big of a roll I would need. I also saw on a homedepot site where they sold an &#8220;enerflex radiant barrier &#8221; panels  that measured 24&#8243; x 4&#8242; or 16&#8243; x 4&#8242;. I was wondering if this would achieve the same outsome as the radiant barrier sheets&#8230;.the panels seem similar just without having to staple&#8230;thanks so much!</p>
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